If there’s one element of Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019 that we’re excited about, it’s the innumerable collaborations that are taking place with a focus on sustainability and handloom—Anita Dongre has combined forces with Tencel; Rohit Bal will showcase a collection made by the Kashmiri women working at Usha Silai; Reebok will launch a new menswear line with Ruchika Sachdeva’s Bodice; and The Woolmark Company joins hands with Aneeth Arora’s Péro. A few weeks ago, Vogue also announced the eight designers who had been shortlisted for the Circular Design Challenge, India’s first sustainability award. On the second day of fashion week, which is known as sustainable fashion day, the winner shall be announced. Topping it all off is Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra’s couture collection, to be showcased at the finale. Scroll ahead for everything we’re looking forward to from Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019.
Kicking off the five-day spectacle is designer Gaurav Gupta, who will be presenting ‘The (Un)folding’ at Mumbai’s iconic The Royal Opera House today. Handwoven fabrics like Benarasi brocades take centre stage through fluid-structural constructed dresses, pantsuits, sari gowns and evening wear in pastel shades (including a festive yellow that makes its debut). Along with zardozi, 3D flowers in organza and georgette, the designer will also be making use of chikankari embroidery for the first time.
In a showcase that celebrates the fusion of fashion and art, Bobo Calcutta by Ayushman Mitra will present a minimal collection in monochrome tones. Titled ‘Blackout/Whitewash’, Mitra says that the line is an artistic representation of suppression and the forceful silencing of creative voices who use art as a tool of socio-political protest. Expect voluminous garments with the label’s signature prints, hand embroideries and embellishments on digital prints, developed from Bobo’s paintings that depict scenes of contemporary revolutions.
The designer returns to Lakmé Fashion Week after four years with a new label—Varun BahlPrêt. Here, you will find easy, ready-to-wear separates like kurtas, dresses, cardigans, culottes and trousers that retain the designer’s signature floral aesthetic—in fact, the entire collection has been created through one simple sketch of a five-petal flower. The colours? A fully pastel palette, of course.
Lakmé Salon x Gauri & Nainika
The Delhi-based designer duo is back at Lakmé Fashion Week, this time with ‘The Art of Latte’, a resort 2019 collection designed for the free-spirited woman who is also an avid traveller. With an intent to glamourise your holiday wardrobe, the range focuses on powerful floral prints and vibrant solids in shades of reds, pinks, nudes and browns. Fabrics like chiffon, crepe de chine, silk taffeta, organza and micro crepe lend a luxurious feel to their high-low dresses, and other ensembles featuring floor-sweeping trains, breezy wrap-around and more.
Usha Silai x Rohit Bal
Rohit Bal’s summer/resort 2019 line is all about championing sustainability and empowering women. The designer has joined hands with sustainable fashion label Usha Silai to birth ‘Guldastah’, a collection that has been exquisitely embroidered by female Kashmiri artisans. Fabrics like organic fabrics, cotton silk blends, Chanderi, silk organza, silk and velvet come decorated with techniques like thread embroidery, gold wire and zardozi, in floral motifs reminiscent of Kashmir. All profits earned from these garments will be given back to these women artisans to help empower them financially.
The Woolmark Company x Péro
The renowned Australian wool company has joined forces with Aneeth Arora’s Péro for the very first time to showcase a handwoven collection made with Merino wool. “The Woolmark Company approached us for this collaboration,” says Arora. “We worked closely with Bhuttico—one of the oldest co-operative weaving society in Kullu—to revive traditional geometric patterns of pattu (shawls draped by women) in monochrome colours with tone-on-tone textures in blue, khaki and off-white,” adds Arora, who incorporates dresses as well as jackets with pattus in this collection.
Tencel x Anita Dongre
For her summer/resort 2019 collection, designer Anita Dongre has collaborated with Tencel to create ‘A Summer Reverie’—a line of lightweight lehengas, maxi dresses, jumpsuits, crop tops and skirts in fresh floral colours of yellow, apricot, seafoam, blue, pink and blush. The speciality of these pieces is that the Tencel fibres are hand spun along with silk and satin, and then woven into fine blends.
Antar-Agni by Ujjawal Dubey has associated with Raymond for his summer/resort 2019 show ‘Balance’, to create a capsule collection that promotes sustainable development from northeast India. Each garment has been created by artisans in Assam, who have used weaving techniques to work with fibres like cotton, eri, tussar and muga silk in neutral colours of ivory and grey with accents of green and citrine.
In a world that’s ruled by consumerism and drowning in information, Kanika Goyal’s summer/resort 2019 collection will make you sit up and take notice. Whether it’s the use of bold colours or iridescent hues, unexpected pairings with sheer overlays and loud prints, or the overall maximal aesthetic, Goyal’s ‘Plastic Fantastic’ line aims to break the vicious cycle of this consumerist culture through outfits that promote self-love, emotional well-being and kindness.
Caprese x Payal Singhal
In her summer/resort 2019 collection ‘Qo’shilish’, Payal Singhal explores the journey of Indian art and its cultural influences to create a renaissance-meets-Mughal-inspired look, which incorporates ancient artistry techniques. The designer also introduces new silhouettes like the Nizami sharara, short lean kurtas, contemporary saris and renaissance tops in her signature fabrics of crepe, velvet, silk, organza, brocade, tissue and georgette.
Taking inspiration from the culture and diversity of the Sa Pa tribes of Vietnam, Anavila Misra puts together an entirely handwoven and handcrafted collection that pays homage to the craft techniques practiced by the local women. Techniques like pleating, cording, embroidery and hand batik have been incorporated on natural yarns such as cotton, linen and silk. However, what makes this collection unique is the use of 100 per cent natural colours and dyes, which Misra worked closely on with clusters in West Bengal, Bhuj in India and Sa Pa in Vietnam.
Rina Singh’s Eka will showcase their ‘Post cards from summer’ collection, which is synonymous of all things summer. The fabrics see the use of sheer and lace, while the colour palette is dedicated to pastels. The range features easy-breezy blouses, relaxed dresses, delicate layers and fragile under-layers, all reminiscent of a dreamy summer afternoon. The best part is their collaboration with Lupin Life’s Corcal, which aims to pay homage to the real women of India who will be walking the runway for Eka—each one having been chosen through an online audition.
Alcis Sports x Narendra Kumar
Bringing sustainability to gym wear is designer Narendra Kumar’s collaboration with Alcis Sports by Roshan Baid. The collection is entirely made out of recycled polyester sourced from PET bottles, and incorporates latest technologies like dry-tech, anti-odour and anti-static. The collection features T-shirts, joggers, bombers, blazers, layered jackets and leggings in prints inspired by Indian textiles and Indian art.
R Elan x Shivan & Narresh
This time round, designers Shivan & Narresh take inspiration from two tribal art forms of two different states—Bengal’s Kalighat Pattachitra art and Andhra Pradhesh’s Tholu Bommalata leather puppetry, which are juxtaposed together in the ‘Patu Series’. The range introduces six new prints—Panthera, Sunderbans, Iconorosh, Fagun, Urvi and Deccan—that are set against colours like indigo, slate and wheat, among others, making the outfits an ideal match for a holiday or a destination wedding.
Reebok Sole Fury x Bodice
Ruchika Sachdeva of Bodice is all set to launch her menswear collection, Bodice Man, at this edition of Lakmé Fashion Week. Sachdeva carries forward her signature sleek lines and attention to detail in the menswear range including both corporate suits and streetwear styles. The summer/resort 2019 collection will also show her usual womenswear line, crafted using India’s indigenous textiles and artisanal techniques.
The Jodhpur-based designer’s collection for Lakmé Fashion Week 2019 celebrates the reinvented bandhgala, both for men and women. Designed in silk and natural yarn, Raghavendra Rathore’s collection uses intricate embroideries on a colour palette of dark neutral tones like blue, black, ivory and grey. While the womenswear range of bandhgalas reflects muted opulence, the menswear collection incorporates bolder and modern masculine lines.
Gully Boy x Love Gen
For their Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019 collection, Bhavana Pandey, Dolly Sidhwani and Nandita Mahtani of Love Gen take inspiration from Ranveer Singh and Alia Bhatt’s upcoming feature, Gully Boy and puts together ‘Gully Gen’—a collection that’s an ode to hip-hop and its influences on street culture. Expect the Gully Boy cast, complete with rappers, to walk the runway clad in menswear jackets, hoodies and T-shirts adorned with statement slogans from the film.
Shantanu & Nikhil
Closing Lakmé Fashion Week summer/resort 2019 is designer duo Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra, whose couture collection ‘Recruit’ highlights the evolution of the millennial Indian woman. Prepare yourselves for avant-garde silhouettes with structured shoulders and exaggerated drapes in vibrant shades of black, gold and red, with the accessories seeing a mix of medallions, silk tassels and gold embroidery.
Source: VOGUE INDIA
Categories: Fashin & Trend